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Eco-Blue Blend Seed
Eco Blue Blend Grown into Turf from SeedEco Blue Blend Seed Bag
Bulk: $10.50 / 1 lb

Eco Blue Blend Seed is a premium eco-friendly Kentucky bluegrass proprietary blend. Each variety is unique and very strong individually.

It will give you ‘real grass’; a rich green grass, lush, cool with good drought tolerance, disease resistance, hardy and self healing.

Good drought resistance means that it only requires, on average, watering at 1 inch per week. The dark green colour of the turf discourages over-watering. Check out Eco Blue Blend watering requirements for a lawn at your specific location with our Water Calculator.

Growth in an Eco Blue Blend lawn is not excessively fast, requiring mowing once per week (dependent on the desired look).

Eco Blue Blend seed is recommended for commercial and residential use, i.e. home and commercial lawns, parks, cemeteries, golf courses, sports fields.

Eco Blue Blend seed is supplied in bulk. We recommend 3-5 lbs per 1000 sq. ft.

Stored in a cool, dry, frost free place Eco Blue Blend seed mix will keep through the seasons.

Brett Young Seeds



Eco Turf Farms provides two popular seed mix products: Eco Smart Blend and Eco Blue Blend!

Eco Blue Blend Lawn Seed

A superior seed blend of Kentucky bluegrass seed to create a healthy, green and hard wearing lawn.

Eco Smart Blend Lawn Seed

An unique blend of fine fescue and Kentucky bluegrass seed for a low maintenance, drought & cold tolerant lawn with an outstanding visual appearance.

Eco Turf Farms’ Lawn Seed is supplied in bulk. We recommend 3-5 lbs per 1000 sq.ft.

Stored in a cool, dry, frost free place Eco Turf Farms seed blends will keep through the seasons.


When should I seed a lawn?

The ideal times to seed a lawn or overseed an existing lawn are spring or fall. Ground temperatures must be steady at 5 to 10 degrees (no risk of frost). Germination takes roughly 7 to 21 days depending on growing conditions.

Sowing a new lawn

  • Existing lawns should be removed using a turf cutter or spade. 
  • Dig over the area to a depth of 150mm-220mm (6-9"), ideally using a rotovator, removing all weeds and large stones. 
  • Give the soil an extra boost with a topsoil dressing and a fertilizer to ensure a lawn gets off to the best possible start.
  • Firm the soil by lightly rolling or treading and rake to a level finish. 
  • Sow the seed, preferably in a number of passes to achieve an even spread. Lightly rake the seed into the top 12-25mm (1/2 - 1") of soil. 
  • Lightly rake area, then pack (tamp) with a board or roller (this is important to give the seed good contact with the moist soil)
  • The seed bed must be kept moist. Water well, using a fine spray if necessary. Keep the ground slightly damp until the seeds sprout.
  • Start mowing when grass is 50-80mm (2-3") high.
  • An organic lawn fertilizer can be applied in the fall. Try soybean meal, which can be purchased at a feed store. The more growth, the more you must mow your lawn. So keep your fertilizing and watering to a minimum if you want to keep your mowing to a minimum. Adding potassium in the spring and summer will make your lawn more drought-tolerant. Do not add nitrogen in spring or summer, however, as this will have the opposite effect. 
  • In the second season of growth, try cutting back the water as much as possible. Watch the grass for signs of needing water. If the blades look dull-green in color, that is the sign that they are thirsty. Often a lawn will have an area where this will show up before any other area. That is the signal to water the entire lawn.
  • Leaving grass clippings on the lawn is recommended as they return valuable nutrients (particularly nitrogen, the main nutrient needed for grass). These clippings will not cause thatch, as they consist primarily of water. Research indicates that de-thatching is not recommended on fescue lawns.

When preparing your seedbed we have an extra few tips:

  • Start with a weed-free seed-bed. Scrape young weeks with a weeding tool, but disturb the soil as little as possible so that you do not cause more weed seeds to come to the surface and be exposed to light, which will cause them to germinate
  • A month before seeding spread corn gluten over the seedbed. It acts as a pre-emergence herbicide for annual grasses, particularly crabgrass. It will not kill existing weeds but rather prevents seeds from germinating. It can be purchased at many home and garden centers.
  • Level the area as much as possible so that the seed doesn't all wash into the low spots
  • Broadcast or drill seed at a rate of 2 - 3 lbs / 1000 sq ft
  • Divide your area into sections and divide the seed into the same number of units you did for the lawn. Spread one seed unit per division. That way you won't run out of seed.
  • Keep evenly moist until seed germinates 
  • Give ample water the first season

Overseeding an existing lawn

  • Mow the lawn to approximately 25mm (1").
  • Using a spring tine rake break up and remove thatch.
  • Using a garden fork, spike the lawn to a depth of approximately 150mm (6") at 300mm (12") intervals.
  • If the lawn has not been fed in the last 4 months, apply a spring or fall fertilizer 4 or 5 days before sowing.
  • Sow the seed evenly across the lawn. 
  • Eco Turf Farms Lawn Seed can be mixed with a topdressing and brushed into the lawn. 
  • The newly sown area must be kept moist. Water well, using a fine spray if necessary. 
  • Bare patches can be sown without treating the whole lawn. Apply the same procedure as above, but use sowing rates as for a new lawn.